Vintage watches – Exclusive insights into Kobler Zug’s watch selection
The trade in wristwatches has now become so well established outside our workshop that you, as a customer, can participate and benefit from it at any time and without much effort.
You no longer have to return your watch to your personal watch dealer in order to sell it. A CtoC sale (‘consumer-to-consumer’, which refers to trade between private individuals, such as online auctions) guarantees you the highest possible price. This is thanks to platforms such as Chrono24, Ebay and Ricardo, which do an excellent job and offer a service with incredible reach.
However, for repairs, advice and maintenance, it is still advisable to visit a watchmaker. The same applies when it comes to verifying the authenticity of a watch.
In this context, you may recall the reports circulating in the media a few months ago about the iconic Omega Speedmaster, which was purchased by Omega itself at auction for over 3 million Swiss francs. It was not an original, but a sophisticated forgery assembled from vintage parts. Three former employees of the company are now suspected of having been involved in the fraud.
We also took the liberty of building a so-called ‘Mariage’ from an old Omega calibre 321, which was entrusted to us by one of our customers. Our customer commissioned us to install his 1966 movement – also known as ‘PRE-MOON’ – in a new Speedmaster case. We were even allowed to equip it with a sapphire crystal, which, incidentally, would immediately shatter under the extreme temperature changes during a trip to the moon. Of course, we do not assume that our customer will embark on such a journey.
The movement (see below) has faithfully accompanied him since 1966 as a service technician on various construction sites around the world, but the case has understandably suffered a great deal of wear and tear. However, the old case, including the dial and hands, remains in the customer’s possession.
Time and again, we are asked to set bezels or even entire cases with precious stones, or to fit the case back with sapphire crystal so that the customer can see the beautiful movement. In the past, this was not technically feasible, mainly for reasons of water resistance.
These clearly comprehensible ‘modifications’ are in no way comparable to deliberate counterfeits such as the Omega model mentioned at the beginning, or the following example.
Without opening the case, it is impossible to tell that this ‘IWC’ watch, which appears to be assembled with original case components, is a counterfeit.
The watch was recently purchased by one of our customers, together with deceptively genuine warranty documents. Even the dealer who sold him the watch was blinded by its seemingly genuine appearance and did not consider it necessary to open the watch.
We understand this very well, and just as it was a lesson for our colleague, it has encouraged us to take a closer look at our own processes. We now open every watch that comes to us for resale and work with the manufacturers, with whom we maintain close contact, to verify the authenticity of each watch. This effort is worthwhile in order to avoid subsequent problems that could have highly unpleasant consequences, including legal ones. As we all know, ignorance is no defence against punishment!
The grey area of ‘authenticity’
Of course, there are also more and more watches – mainly from the early 1950s to the 1980s – for which it is simply no longer possible to verify their authenticity with 100% certainty. In particular, it is sometimes difficult to research the route taken through official sales channels for various reasons. This is partly due to the lack of documentation from that period and partly to the fact that watchmakers were once allowed to assemble certain watches themselves using original components. Some of these are interesting pieces, customised with the finest details. In other words, personalisations similar to those we offer today. For example, skeletonised movement bridges, whose beauty is only revealed when the watch case is opened, and usually only to the watchmaker himself. We also have such models in our studio that never made their way to the dealers via the manufacturers’ sales accounting departments. Declaring such finds today means extensive research work for us and requires close cooperation with the watch brands.
For example, the manufacturer can no longer find any documentation on this Breitling GMT Chrono-Matic with the famous calibre 11. However, there is a small engraving on the inside that suggests that a watchmaker once worked there in the past. We also noticed that some of the movement components do not comply with the standards of the time. The components of the watch are all genuine, and the watch was purchased by the watchmaker in the correct manner. Apart from that, the watch is fully functional and even delivers better performance results than those specified for the calibre in quality control at the time. Yes, it is fair to say that this watchmaker has optimised – even pimped – his watch.
For you as a customer, this means that you can offer wristwatches purchased from a certified dealer of a watch brand for sale at any time without feeling guilty. However, it is best to do so with the original documents.
Vintage watches at Kobler Zug
For watches purchased via other platforms and, above all, directly from other watch collectors, we recommend seeking more detailed information from your trusted watchmaker.
Thanks to our international contacts – mainly in the Asian second-hand markets – we also offer a small, selective range of vintage watches. These are exclusive pieces that ignite our inner passion. Just over a year ago, we made our first attempt and displayed a beautiful selection in one of our spacious studio shop windows. After a short time, we were unable to keep up with customer demand and have been constantly on the lookout for new finds ever since.
We invested exclusively in wristwatches that we would personally wear ourselves, and it pains us a little to part with some of these pieces.
In honour of our exclusive watch selection, we are pleased to present a few ‘treats’ below. Feel transported back to a shopping experience from the 1970s.
These include iconic Tissot models with the now very rare Lemania calibre 1341 or cult Omega watches with calibres 1040 and 1045. Not to forget the alarm clock calibre 850, also from Omega, or the famous chronographs from Breitling with calibres 11 and 12. All of these watches are from the 1960s and 1970s.
Fresh from the watch workshop:
A Breitling transOcean Chrono-Matic from 1967 Cal.12, complete with original components, and restored in our own workshop.
The collection has recently been expanded to include a virtually unworn design icon from Türler. What makes this piece special is that it is a watch from one of my (Andreas) former places of work, where I was personally involved in its development and implementation. Knowing that Türler Jewellery & Watches continues to offer this collection in a wide variety of variations, we are particularly proud to now be able to include it in our own vintage collection.
Below, we present three versions of the current Türler by Mendini collection, with mechanical hand-wound movements – all crafted in precious metals. From left to right: platinum with black spinel inlays and 563 brilliant-cut diamonds (2.40 ct); rose gold with meteorite inlays (Cape York meteorite); yellow gold with black spinel inlays and 563 garnets in a colour gradient.
We also carry versions of the first series of Türler by Mendini from 1988. At that time, the watch cases were still handmade by goldsmiths using psilomelane, a hard manganese ore, as an inlay. Both the men’s and women’s versions were equipped with a quartz movement.
Vintage classics as an investment
Of course, we too are excited by the high demand for the so-called ‘hot cookies’, the incredibly sought-after models from Rolex and Patek Philipp that have been around for decades. We offer our small, exclusive range to customers who cannot resist this hype – as, incidentally, neither can we. You may sometimes see one or two Daytonas from the 1990s or an elegant Nautilus from the 1970s on our wrists.
But what is important for you as a customer or even as the lucky owner of such models is that these watches, together with the corresponding papers, are now considered a currency or investment in their own right – comparable to gold or diamonds. Even though the prices of such models are currently falling sharply due to the geopolitical situation, a certain fear of inflation or the collapse of the crypto market, they still sell for well above the manufacturer’s recommended retail prices.
The optimal care for your vintage watch
Vintage watches like these urgently need a little ‘wellness’ from time to time – a worn leather strap here, a dent in the case there, or the movement needs the attention of a watchmaker. If you need assistance, whether it’s to refresh the case, make a minor repair to the movement, or even a complete overhaul, or just to find out the price, then come and see us! We will give you professional advice and support.
Kobler Zug – your trusted jeweller and watchmaker
In our in-house watchmaker and pendulum workshop, we carefully restore watch models of all brands and provide them with a 24-month warranty. Services such as battery replacement, waterproofing and strap replacement are part of our daily services. We repair, overhaul and restore precious timepieces, wristwatches and clocks. Even tower clocks are included. Those who have already visited the workshop in person will be familiar with the 200-year-old specimen that adorns the premises and gives every visitor a fascinating insight into the world of mechanics. With this comprehensive range of restored antique clocks, we also focus on the Empire style and its wonderful fire-gilded table and mantel clocks.
In addition, there are special English and French watches from the period 1800–1930, such as this marine chronometer by Parkinson & Frodsham from around 1840.
We look forward to welcoming you to our studio soon, whether it be to show you our unique pieces in person or to serve you as a watchmaker.